Content & Impact

Content & Impact

Rainwear is as much chemistry as it is design. Here we go through the substances that are often discussed in the industry — what they are, why they once ended up in rainwear, and exactly what we do instead. No rewriting, no empty promises. Just what holds up.

Fact box: REACH

What it is
REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) is the EU’s overarching chemicals legislation — Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006, in force since 1 June 2007. It’s administered by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) in Helsinki, which the regulation itself established.

How it works — four parts

1. Registration: companies that manufacture or import a substance in quantities above one tonne per year must register it with ECHA and submit safety data. Around 23,000 substances were registered as of 2025.

2. Evaluation: ECHA and member states review the submitted data and can request further testing.

3. Authorisation: substances of very high concern (SVHC) are first added to a Candidate List — around 247 substances — and a selection of these are then moved to the stricter Authorisation List (Annex XIV), where use requires specific regulatory authorisation after a set “sunset date.” This is how DEHP, DBP, BBP and DIBP have been handled since 2015.

4. Restriction: Annex XVII sets direct limits or bans for specific uses without requiring the full authorisation process — this is how phthalates have been restricted in toys since 2007 and in adult clothing since 2020.

The decisive principle is “no data, no market”: the burden of proof lies with the company, not the authority. A substance can’t be sold until the manufacturer has shown it’s safe — the opposite of how older chemicals legislation worked.

How it differs from other systems
In the US, chemicals were historically regulated under TSCA (Toxic Substances Control Act, 1976), where the burden of proof ran the other way: the authority (the EPA) had to prove a substance was dangerous before it could be restricted. This resulted in thousands of substances entering the market without adequate testing (Krimsky, PLOS Biology, 2017). TSCA was reformed in 2016, but the burden of proof remains weaker than REACH’s. China has its own registration system similar in structure to REACH (often called “China REACH”), but with fewer binding textile-specific requirements.

How Farmerrain differs
We use REACH as our floor, not our ceiling. We phase out substances — like chlorinated paraffins — before they become subject to authorisation, rather than waiting for the last possible deadline.

Fact box: PFAS

What it is
PFAS is a group of over 4,700 industrial chemicals that all share one thing: an extremely strong carbon-fluorine bond. That bond is why PFAS works so well in practice — it makes substances water-, grease- and dirt-repellent in a way almost no natural material can match. The same property also makes them unusually hard to break down. They disappear neither in nature nor in the body within any reasonable timeframe, which is why they’re called “forever chemicals.”
Where PFAS occurs
PFAS is used in clothing in two different ways: as a surface treatment (DWR) on the outside of the fabric, or built into a breathable membrane (for example PTFE-based, as in Gore-Tex). PFAS is most common in rain jackets and other outdoor garments. A 2023 study by Arnika and IPEN, testing garments from 13 countries, found PFOA — one of the most health-damaging PFAS substances — in 17 of the outdoor jackets tested, with 16 exceeding the EU’s proposed limits. But the findings went further than that: the same study also found PFAS in T-shirts, swimwear, trousers and an apron. Other common sources include ski wear, hiking trousers, waterproof shoes and gloves, and children’s clothing marketed as “stain-resistant” — North American research (Young et al., Environmental Science & Technology, 2022) found PFAS in all 72 school-uniform products tested from US and Canadian stores.

According to an analysis reported by the environmental organisation ChemTrust in 2024, textiles account for only around 11 percent of total EU PFAS use, but for as much as 31 percent of PFAS emissions to the environment — because the surface treatment gradually wears and washes off over the garment’s lifetime. Today, the EU has binding textile limits for only two specific substances, PFOA and PFOS; other PFAS substances in clothing are not yet subject to EU-level limits, which is the background to the broader PFAS ban currently in preparation (see Regulation below).

Why they ended up in rainwear
PFAS-based surface treatment (DWR, “durable water repellent”) has, since the 1950s, been the industry’s most effective way to make water bead off fabric. Breathable membrane garments (like Gore-Tex) rely on the same principle.

What the research shows
Elevated PFAS levels in the blood are linked to certain cancers, weakened immune function, hormone disruption and reduced fertility, among other things. This is about accumulated exposure over time, not a single contact.

Regulation
The EU already regulates several PFAS substances via the POP Regulation and REACH. France is banning PFAS in clothing from 2026, Denmark from July 2026. In addition, a broad EU-wide restriction covering PFAS as a group, including textiles, is under evaluation – proposed to ECHA in 2023 by Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden. China has no equivalent binding textile requirement — only voluntary standards.

How Farmerrain differs
We use no DWR treatment at all. Waterproofness sits in the vinyl material itself — like an umbrella, not a spray-on surface. There’s no PFAS layer to renew after washing, because there was never one to begin with.

Fact box: Phthalates

What it is                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Phthalates are plasticizers that make hard, brittle PVC soft and flexible. They are not chemically bound to the plastic — they sit loosely embedded and slowly migrate out over the garment’s entire lifetime.

Why they ended up in rainwear
In its natural state, PVC is unusable as a clothing material. Plasticizers — phthalates in particular, above all DEHP — became, over the 20th century, the cheapest and best-performing way to make PVC flexible.

What the research shows
Phthalates are classified as endocrine disruptors by, among others, ECHA. Research links exposure to lower hormone levels, reduced fertility, and developmental effects in children. DEHP is a “Substance of Very High Concern” (SVHC) under the EU’s REACH Regulation.

Regulation
Since 2020, the EU’s REACH restrictions cover not just toys but general clothing and footwear for adults. Independent testing of toys labelled “Made in China” has found phthalate levels far above the limits — in one case 130 times the REACH limit.

This isn’t just a matter of different limits — it’s a matter of different timelines. The four most common ortho-phthalates, DEHP, DBP, BBP and DIBP, have required specific regulatory authorisation within the EU since 21 February 2015 (REACH Annex XIV) — in practice banned in almost all applications unless a company has applied for and been granted a specific exemption. In 2021, the requirements were tightened further when the substances were classified as endocrine disruptors, bringing more uses under the authorisation requirement. So it’s been over ten years since the EU closed the door on these four phthalates. Outside the EU there is no equivalent tightening: DEHP is still manufactured and used at scale in China, India and other parts of Asia, as well as the Middle East, Africa and Latin America — and can enter the EU market via imported goods.

How Farmerrain differs
Our plasticizer is called Pevalen™ Pro 100 (Perstorp) — a polyol ester, an entirely different chemical family from phthalates. It’s used across all four of our own materials: Biovinyl+, Blank Biovinyl+, Raintex+ and Raintex Light+. It’s also based on 100 percent renewable or recycled carbon (traced through certified mass balance) and, according to Perstorp, has a roughly 80 percent lower carbon footprint than a conventional plasticizer, calculated from cradle to gate.

Fact box: Chlorinated paraffins (SCCP & MCCP)

What it is
Chlorinated paraffins are chlorinated hydrocarbons used as secondary plasticizers and flame retardants in PVC and rubber. They’re divided by chain length: short-chain (SCCP, C10–C13) and medium-chain (MCCP, C14–C17).

Why they ended up in rainwear
SCCP was for a long time a cheap complement to phthalates in PVC — it made the material more dimensionally stable and provided some flame resistance. As SCCP began to be regulated out, it was largely replaced by MCCP, considered less problematic.

What the research shows
SCCP is classified as a “Substance of Very High Concern” (SVHC) and meets the criteria for vPvB (very persistent, very bioaccumulative) under REACH. The substance group is suspected of being endocrine-disrupting and carcinogenic. A market study of PVC and rubber products on the Belgian market found SCCP in 27 of 28 tested samples — most below the EU limit, but the prevalence shows how widespread the substance still is in imported consumer goods.

Regulation — this is where it differs from PFAS and phthalates
SCCP has already been bindingly banned within the EU since 2017, via the Stockholm Convention and the EU’s POP Regulation (limit of 0.15% by weight in articles). MCCP is on track to receive the same status: the Stockholm Convention decided in May 2025 to list MCCP, and the European Commission has proposed adding MCCP to the POP Regulation, with a decision planned during 2026. Outside the EU there is no equivalent binding legislation — the industry’s own lists (AFIRM, ZDHC) set voluntary limits, but they are exactly that: voluntary.

How Farmerrain differs
Pevalen™ Pro 100 is a polyol ester — neither a phthalate nor a chlorinated paraffin. Its chemical structure has nothing in common with chlorinated alkanes. Same plasticizer, same answer, in all four of our own materials.

Fact box: LCA and EPD

What it is
A life cycle assessment (LCA) is a method for calculating a product’s environmental impact across its entire life – from extracting raw materials, through manufacturing and transport, to use and what happens when the product is worn out. The method is governed by the international standards ISO 14040 and ISO 14044. An Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) is the way the results of an LCA are reported under ISO 14025: according to established product category rules (PCR), reviewed by an independent third party and valid for a limited period.

How it works – system boundaries
A carbon footprint only means something if you know what is included. The two most common system boundaries are:                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       • Cradle to gate: the calculation covers only the process from raw material extraction and manufacturing until the product leaves the factory – the gate. Use and waste are not included. The term is often used in Environmental Product Declarations (EPDs) and climate declarations to show the direct manufacturing impact of a module or component. This makes it easier to compare the manufacturing phase between different makes without having to speculate about how the product will later be used or transported.
• Cradle to grave: the entire life cycle, including transport, use and what happens when the product is worn out.
Figures with different system boundaries therefore cannot be compared directly.

Our EPD
Our Environmental Product Declaration EPD-IES-0005125 covers the sailing jacket in Raintex+, our heaviest fabric (470 g/m²). It was produced with data from Miljögiraff AB, verified by Sweco Environment according to ISO 14025, and shows 5.82 kg of carbon dioxide equivalent per jacket from cradle to grave. It is valid until January 2027. The calculation is based on reference data from
2020, before we switched to the Pevalen™ Pro 100 plasticizer in 2024, and a new measurement is under way.

Two figures, two system boundaries
5.82 kg per jacket is our own, third-party-verified figure for the whole garment, from cradle to grave. The roughly 80 percent lower carbon footprint of Pevalen™ Pro 100 is Perstorp’s figure for the plasticizer itself, from cradle to gate – that is, up to the point it leaves Perstorp’s factory. The figures measure different things and should not be mixed up.

How Farmerrain differs
We report our figure together with its system boundary, verifier and caveats, so that it can be checked. Since 27 September 2026, EU Directive 2024/825 requires environmental claims to be backed by exactly this kind of evidence.

FAQ